Download or read book The American Tailor and Cutter Volume 23 written by Anonymous and published by Rarebooksclub.com. This book was released on 2013-09 with total page 198 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can usually download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1902 edition. Excerpt: ...so simple that many cutters think we are wasting valuable space in considering it, proves more helpful to other cutters than the heavy, important contributions and original matter that strongly appeals to the expert. We have much pleasure, therefore, in giving the information for which you ask at considerable length and with illustrative diagrams. Diagram I illustrates the formation and slant of the hip-V of either a cutaway or a double-breasted frock, when the V is intended both to give breast fulness and hip under the front of the scye, and that the bottom is extended a seam's width lower in front of the V than it is back of it. If this were not done the back edge of the V would be longer than the front edge, and the journeyman would be obliged to reshape the bottom of the forepart, in doing which he would probably materially change the spring of the skirt as he would be obliged to shorten the forepart a seam's width at the back edge of the V, which would pull the skirt forward, causing it to split under the tack. C, the terminus of the V, should not be quite as high as it is desired to have the V extend. To cut the V so as to be sure the edges will be shaped alike and the bottom of the forepart will have the correct form, proceed as follows: Diagram 2.--Fold the pattern on the line A B as represented. Cut the V to C on the curve desired. This makes it certain that both edges are alike. Cut the bottom from D through B. This nips off the corner indicated by the arrow. X. Kuzeme will note that when the V is closed on the dotted line that the seam will extend about 1 inch above C and will begin exactly at the junction of the part of the bottom that is in front of the V with that part which is back of it, thus forming a continuous line that...